Watches & Wonders, the most important luxury watch trade show of 2021, saw Panerai release a selection of impressive new Luminor pieces, each with yet more refined aesthetics, as well as a host of novel engineering solutions. Inimitably stylish design meets carefully considered, high-technology watchmaking, as fans of Panerai have come to expect.
The flagship watch novelty from Panerai for 2021 is the new Submersible eLAB-ID PAM01225. This is the latest in the brand’s LAB-ID range, which is short for “Laboratorio di Idee” – a phrase that indicates its commitment to the continuous search for innovative technical solutions.
A new avenue of research for Panerai began a few years ago with the Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Limited Edition PAM00985 and its EcoTitanium case that relied on titanium alloy recycled from the aerospace industry. Since then, Panerai has only enhanced its dedication to sustainability – a rather new concept in the Swiss luxury watch industry.
The new Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID PAM01225 continues to forge that path of sustainability through a record-breaking achievement: it is a timepiece that is constructed using 98.6% recycled materials (by weight). The case, sandwich dial, as well as the movement bridges are all composed of EcoTitanium.
The luminous material applied to the dial and hands is 100% recycled SuperLuminova, while the movement’s escapement is 100% recycled silicon. Both materials are collected through dedicated, small-scale recycling processes that reuse raw material waste.
Presented in a 44mm wide case, the PAM01225 ranks among the rare, more classically sized concept pieces by Panerai – which tend to measure 47mm – and, according to Panerai, a public availability may be planned for 2022 or after. Until then, the PAM01225 remains a mighty impressive technical achievement that exemplifies Panerai’s unrivalled dedication to sustainability through engineering solutions.
Following close in the footsteps of the concept piece is the publicly available 2021 Panerai novelty, the trio of Luminor Marina E-Steel watches, namely the PAM01356 in Verde Smeraldo green, PAM01358 in Grigio Roccia grey, and PAM01157 in Blue Profondo. Three spectacular novelties by Panerai, each with novel, dynamic dials that fade from a rich, saturated colour at 12 o’clock into a dark black at 6 o’clock, symbolizing the way colours and light disappear as one descends into the depths of the open seas.
All three versions have 44mm wide cases crafted from recycled eSteel™, a recycled-based material that represents a step in Panerai’s commitment to reduce the need for virgin material extraction and its associated high environmental impact.
A total of 89 grams come from recycled materials in each piece, corresponding to 58,4% of the total weight, achieved by crafting not only the case, but also the dial of the Luminor Marina eSteel™ from this eco-friendly steel alloy.
Panerai’s engineers and watchmakers have worked with specalized suppliers to ensure that eSteel™ meets the same rigorous standards in terms of durability, anti-allergenic properties and beauty of finish, as does the alloy fans of the brand have come to appreciate to date. Resulting from their shared dedication to a no-compromise solution, eSteel™ exhibits the identical chemical behavior, physical structure and resistance to corrosion as a non-recycled alloy.
Completing the picture is the eSteel™ trapezoidal pin buckle that securely holds the recycled textile strap – coordinated with the colour of the dial colour. Even the additional strap and the storage box are composed of recycled material, signalling Panerai’s relentless commitment to sustainability.
Each of the Panerai Luminor Marina E-Steel models are powered by the in-house Panerai P.9010 caliber that provides 3 days of power reserve matched to a stable 4 Hertz operating frequency while displaying the hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds and date. Beautifully crafted in every detail, the Panerai Luminor Marina E-Steel are a spectacular addition to the Panerai collection both for their novel transitional dials, as well as their pioneering materials engineering.
Watches & Wonders 2021 saw the launch of a trio of brand new Panerai Luminor Chronographs with the PAM01109, PAM01218 and PAM01110, along with a 1,000-piece Luna Rossa PAM01303 limited edition.
All presented in 44mm-wide and 15.65mm-thick cases crafted from stainless steel with 100 meters of water resistance, these chronographs successfully maintain the famously perfect proportions of the Luminor line while adding the signature touch of complexity of a chronograph. The iconic crown guard bridge remains wholly intact on the right hand side of the case, while the two pushers used to start-stop and reset the chronograph have been engineered into the left profile.
Likewise, the lovingly named “sandwich dial” remains beautifully legible – a typical Panerai characteristic – , owing to its reliance on large, so-called sword hands, equally large and easy-to-see hour markers and, of course, a heavy use of Super-LumiNova on every hand and all more important markers.
A rare touch to the dial is the tacyhmeter scale around the periphery of the dial, that ties in neatly with the centre-mounted chronograph seconds hand and the additional 30-minute chronograph sub-dial located at the 3 o’clock position.
The bezel, crown and pushpieces are polished to perfection, while the rest of the case is satin-brushed, further enhancing the sophisticated complexity that radiates from the 2021 Panerai Luminor Chronographs.
A unique bracelet in stainless steel is also available with a spectacular link-design that complements the trademark curvature of the Luminor bezel and case.
Available with a choice of black, white and blue dials and a host of strap and bracelet options, the Panerai Luminor Chronographs collection is easily customizable – finding one that best suits an individual’s style and wearing habits is easy.
Another mighty impressive new chronograph from Panerai for 2021 is the Panerai Luminor Chrono Monopulsante GMT Blu Notte. A 44mm-wide ceramic case encapsulates a stunning blue dial and, through a sapphire crystal window installed into the titanium case back, reveals the hand-wound caliber P.2004. Comprising 321 components, 29 jewels, three barrels and made entirely by Panerai, the P.2004 is a true high-performance chronograph caliber of the highest grade.
Its Glucydur™ balance wheel is operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour – a remarkably high rate for a movement with a super-extended 8 days of power reserve. The technical complexities of the P.2004 are only enhanced by the trademark Panerai power reserve indicator that works in a linear fashion, situated just above the 6 o’clock marker. At 9 o’clock on the dial one finds an 24-hour am / pm indicator, which works in tandem with the centre-mounted GMT handthat can be used to conveniently keep track of a second time zone. At 3 o’clock the sub-dial functions as the 30-minute counter linked to the monopusher chronograph.
Also known as monopulsante, a monopusher is a rarified version of a traditional chronograph that relies on a single pusher to start, stop, as well as to reset the chronograph.
More complicated and exotic, this system uses the traditionally desirable column wheel – revealed through a dedicated cut-out in the movement – to provide a perfectly crisp feedback to the owner every time they operate the chronograph.
From the peak of Panerai watchmaking know-how, the Panerai Luminor Chrono Monopulsante GMT Blu Notte is a spectacular timepiece limited to just 200 pieces.
Presented with a charming charge of femininity, the Panerai Piccolo Due Madraperla PAM01280 is a delicate and highly refined reinterpretation of the Luminor. At just 38 millimetres in diameter and only 11.2 millimetres thick, the Piccolo (Italian for small) combines a polished Goldtech™ case with a white mother-of-pearl dial with applied golden Arabic numerals, indexes and hands, all filled with white Super-LumiNova™ that provides green luminescence.
Goldtech™ is a precious gold alloy that possesses a vibrant personality that results from a significant percentage of copper (24%) and platinum (0,4%). In addition to its intense tone, the metal boasts heightened resistance to oxidation.
Combined with its special dial and luminous display, day in or day out, the Panerai Piccolo Due Madraperla is sure to provide a spectacular play of light.
The tiniest movement of the wrist will reveal new shades and colours of the white mother-of-pearl dial – a stunning material that nature has formed in all sorts of creative ways to radiate with a mystical variety of lightness and vibrance.
Matched to a shiny red alligator strap with tone-on-tone stitching with a polished Goldtech™ trapezoidal buckle, the Panerai Piccolo Due Madraperla PAM01280 even has a quick-release system that makes changing the strap – and hence the look and mood – of this charming Luminor Due incredibly easy and fun.
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